Antibes - the nearest sandy beach to Nice

www.allaboutnice.com - my website

Thursday 9th July 2009

Plage de La Gravette, Antibes (with apologies for terrible photo-stitching)

We wanted the feel of sand between our toes so went to Antibes for the day. Closer substitutes with almost sandy beaches include Villefranche, Plage Passable and Cocody Beach but the proper sand starts west of Nice at Antibes.

Took the 200 TAM bus from Nice Gare Routiere to Antibes. It was one euro but not worth the time involved really as we waited over 40 minutes in the bus station for the 200 to arrive. The journey was 1 hour 35 minutes, then a walk to the beach. It was lovely on the beach though and not too crowded yet as the French and UK school holidays haven't started for everyone yet.

We go to the free little public beach called la Gravette rather than along the the coast a bit to the wider stretch of Les Salis. From the map below, you can see the route. It's a odd way to get to the beach, there's no signpost and you have to go into the Marina (the red dot on the map) then out again under a set of arches to get on the beach. There's a kiosk for snacks, icecreams, drinks and a fresh water shower by the sea with a tap part - it's OK to drink so you can fill up your water bottle.

The loos (one for men, one for women) are outside the beach just by the arch. They are pretty revolting - a hole and somewhere to put your feet but it flushes and there is a wash basin. No paper or soap, take your own and use hand sanitiser. Or go in the sea. A 'refinement' to the loos this year is the doors - last year they were half-grilled so that people could see you, at least they have been filled in this year so you can pee in peace. There is a definite skill to using the loo - a balance, literally, between aim and noise - you'll find out.

map of central Antibes, with route to La Gravette beach from train and bus.

(map courtesy of Plan Guide City Map, Antibes, around 6 euros)

Here's the entrance to the beach, looking from the beach to the Marina. I photoshopped out (v badly) the shopping trolley full of beach paraphernalia that my dear husband was holding, he doesn't usually have his wrist bent like that.

It was a lovely day, reading, picnicking, snoozing, buying ice creams etc and we eeked it out for as long as possible to about 6pm before packing and heading back. Sand is certainly more comfortable than Nice's pebbles but a week later, we are still crunching sand around the apartment and the towels needed washing the same day - they stay much 'cleaner' on the pebbles.

Anyway, coming home also turned into a nightmare. A very long wait, it must have been over 30 minutes before the 200 arrived which was full and the driver let off a few passsengers further down the road from our stop and then refused to stop for the 20 or so waiting people at our stop. At this point, we decided to leg it to the train station. This was our one bit of transport luck that day. In 5 minutes, a fast train to Nice Ville arrived and in about 20 minutes we were in Nice and headed for a tram to Garibaldi, none of us could face the walk at that point. The fare was 4 euros each, about 1,50 euros for my daughter plus a euro each for the tram. Worth every penny.

Not sure I'll bother with the 200 again, I'd rather pay the train fare for most places west of Nice.



My daughter enjoying the sand on La Gravette, the beach looks almost empty in this pic.

Other ideas for trips out of Nice.

A trip to Villefranche

Villefranche - close to Nice, lovely beach

Villefranche, July 2008


Villefranche is a lovely peaceful coastal village just minutes from Nice by bus or train. We like going there for the beach which is fine gravel and shelves gently into the sea, perfect for small children as well as everyone else. Unlike the beaches in Nice there is no need for padded mats or rubber swim shoes, the gravel is easy to walk on and comfortable to lie on, you just need a towel. We always take a small parasol which slides through the gravel effortlessly compared to the pile driver needed for the pebbles in Nice.



From the beach, view to the east of Villefranche, towards the peninsular, St Jean Cap Ferrat















From the beach, view towards the west of Villefranche, to Villefranche Port, the Citadel, Welcome Hotel and the Cap of Nice.

From the Port in Nice, we catch the 100 TAM bus bound for Menton via Monaco. It's one euro each this year. Villefranche is the next village/town east of Nice, just the other side of the Cap de Nice and before St Jean Cap Ferrat. It's just about 8 stops on the 100. Once you are on the downward run into Villefranche, you need to ding the dinger and get off at the bus stop marked 'Octroi'. The Villefranche Tourist Office is a little way further up the road on the right and set back a bit. You can pick up a map there. I've tried to mark out the location of everything on the map below.

To get to the beach, you need to walk past the the tourist office and turn right then wend your way downwards either through the Old Town of Villefranche or though the stone fortress or Citadel down to the sea. The beaches are at the far east end of Villefranche, Plages des Marinières. Only the indicated areas have lifeguards. There used to be a private beach here but this has closed down so it is now all pubic beach. There is a food/drink kiosk for snacks, ice cream (cornettos, 3 euros) etc and a fairly horrible loo (go in the sea). There are a couple of open fresh water showers.

If you drive there is a pay and display car park right by the beach d if you take the train from Nice, it is just 2 stops away from Nice Ville (then Nice Riquier, the Villefranche) and about 1,30 euros. The train is the closest option for the beach but the 100 fom the Port is handier for us as our studio is by the port.

Although it's a bit of a walk to the beach from the bus stop, it's downhill plus you pass a Spar shop so you can buy a picnic lunch at a reasonable price. Coming back to Nice is a bit of a slog back up the hill to the Octroi bus stop though so we have worked out a better route using the Ligne d'Azur bus, the 80 which starts by the Port of Villefranche, the stop is called Port de la Sante and route takes you up and over Mont Alban, then down into Nice on the high twisty back roads away from the clogged coastal road. It terminates at Nice Riquier train station which leaves us a 10 minute walk back to the studio however we usually wait a few minutes and take the connecting number 7 or 20 which continues on to the Port, you use the same 1 euro ticket - there's no extra charge as it is a continuation of the same journey. A couple of weeks ago, we watched, along with about 30 Italians, two 100 TAM buses sail straight by the Octroi bus stop on to Nice without stopping. No matter, we have the 80 alternative up our sleeves and no long schlep up the hill either. I've tied to indicate on the map, the location of everything:

There's an 80 this year that leaves the Port at 6:05 pm, a good time to head back. All along the front at Villefranche, there are bars/restaurants and cafes and the bus top for the 80 is by the little church decorated by Jean Cocteau and close to a small square where you can buy a coffee or ice cream if there's time before the bus comes. Try and sit on the right hand side of the bus facing the driver for the best views over Villefranche.

The 14th century Chapel of St Pierre, decorated by Jean Cocteau, by the Port de la Santé, Villefranche.

Useful links:

allaboutNice.com

Trips out of Nice using public transport

ligne d'Azur bus information

TAM bus information

Welcome Hotel, Villefranche