Back in Nice for the summer 2008

9th July 2008 - back to Nice for the summer

One of our worst flights with easyjet out from Liverpool to Nice, a three-hour delay with very little communication. We were meant to depart at 18:30 due to arrive 22:30pm in time to take the express bus 98 but eventually arrived 01:30am and had to brook the cost of a taxi - 35 euros including the tip as all express buses stop before midnight. We did better than the crowd off to Alicante - their flight was cancelled.

It's been the longest break away from Nice, we were last here in December other than topping and tailing a ski holiday in Meribel in February. We've been here about a week now, it's going to be a hot summer I think, temperature has stayed around the 28°C mark most days. As usual, I'm overweight at the start of the holiday and I can really notice it with the heat. I've started to run again in the mornings but not for long, about 20-25 minutes most mornings.

We are economising this summer, meals on our balcony, no private beaches etc, I would like to say as a response to the credit crunch and an urge to live thriftily but mostly due to me

blowing the holiday budget on our second day here in Monte Carlo.

I've been studiously avoiding all shops since, even harder when they are still in the sales period - 'Soldes' signs in all the windows.

Monte Carlo is still fabulous, I like it more and more every time I go - so neat and clean. We took the 'xpress 100' from the Gare Routiere, it's 1 euro and knocks about 20 minutes off the regular 100 bus to Menton. More info about the xpress service here.

A few changes that I've noticed already:-

1. All bus fares appear to be just 1 euro this year, not 1,30 euros like last year. This is for the lignedazur buses in and near Nice and the tram and also the TAM bus network linking Nice with surrounding towns and villages. Such great value.

2. Place Garibaldi is 99% finished at last and looks wonderful with trees, seating, re-sited fountain and statue. It's quiet too with 2 one-way roads, a bus lane and a tram line only. It's now possible to walk across serenely. That's if you can take the sun - the trees need to grow a bit for shade or you can stick to the long way around under the arcades. There's just the water in the fountains and some edging and signposts to complete for full renovation/restoration.


It's made a big difference to the Café de Turin restaurant and the café Garibaldi - far more pleasant to sit outside with just the tranquil hum of a tram going by - traffic is reduced to one way here and it is generally much less busy.

3. One of my recommended restaurants appears to have closed - Chez Pistol next door the the Petit Turin, from the renovations it looks as though the Petit and Garnd café de Turin have bought it and are expanding sideways.

4. Our local Tabac on rue Pairoliere in the Old Town has been renamed 'Charlotte' and now sells cheap jewellery and local papers and postcards, we have to travel a bit further to buy an international paper.

5. Just like two years ago, the 98 express bus from the airport will continue on to the Port until about the second week of September - extremely handy for us. The fare for both the express buses remains at 4 euros and serves as a one-day bus pass within Nice for the rest of the day. Last year, it was the turn of the 99 to continue to the Port, I think the 98 route is better.

6. Prices. Noticeably more expensive in than last year, in supermarkets, restaurants etc and compounded by the weak pound. We continue to shop in the supermarket 'Ed' on rue Cassini, by far the best value though a bit limited in choice.

My website: Allaboutnice.com

Summer holiday in Nice 2007

Sunday 8th July 2007

Daughter finished school on Friday so we are off to Nice for a month. Daughter and I flew out of Liverpool Sunday evening. Dear husband had to stay behind to work but will fly out on Wednesday, no doubt expecting a clean studio and a fridge full of beer.

Flight delayed 30 minutes but fairly uneventful and arrived in Nice around 10pm, bags too heavy to cope with the express bus so we took a taxi, 28 euros, the cheapest fare in five years, no idea why. Found out a couple of days later that the 98 express bus continues on past the usual end stop, the Gare Routière, to the Port until September which we probably could have managed inspite of two large bags.

Monday 9th July 2007

Woke to no food in the house. I am determined to lose the 20 extra pounds I have gained over the last couple of years so I got up and went for a run. Very pleased that I kept going for 23 minutes without stopping. The rest of the day we unpacked and shopped. The sales 'soldes' are on everywhere in France. I bought two pairs of shoes from Arche, they are the only make of shoe I can wear as I get very sore feet. So comfortable I wore my new sandals out of the shop and for the rest of the day.

Stocked up on a couple of T shirts from Petit Bateau, 30% off the stock and dropped by at Hermès to look at scarves. Found a scarf I have been coveting but in a colourway I've not seen before, they will hold it until husband arrives to give the OK. There were a few sales things in the back, winter ready to wear and some lovely shoes if you were a size 36. Saw the new bag - the Victoria fourre tout I think it's called, big but it can be shouldered, not for me though. Unlined which makes it light, still over 2,000 euros. They had some white Picotin bags which are gorgeous plus a fairly rare Barenia leather Picotin in the smallest size. Daughter very fond of the Picotin in white but as it is about 2 years pocket money, she'll stick to the cheap bags from Aratto for 6 euros each. She did well in Arrato, lots of bling for about 17 euros.

Meeting friends in Juan les Pins tomorrow, knowing the French queues can be bad, we bought tickets in advance at Riquier train station - the closest stop to the Port, one stop east of the main train stop Nice Ville. Picked up a new train time table. For J les Pins, we need the slow stopping at all stations trains, it's about a 35 minute ride, a return ticket for me was about 9 euros and about 4 euros for my daughter. The bus 200 to J les P would have been 1,30 euros each way but it's very slow, over an hour.

For supper we had a take out pizza from Choix d'Anna on the corner of our residence, 5 euros a full size pizza, not worth cooking at that price.

Tuesday 10th July 2007

Legs and feet very sore from running. Went out an drank 24 minutes. Up and out to Juan les Pins by train to meet friends staying at the La Juana Hotel. It's lovely there and we spent the day on a private beach - Les Pecheurs, very nice indeed a little further away from the main beaches at J les P , just past the Port Gallice. Had a wonderful lunch there too. No idea of cost as we were guests of our generous friends but I expect it was fairly pricey. I took a card on the way out, there's a website : http://www.lespecheurs-lecap.com/

If you are visting Juan les Pins and want a luxurious day on the beach with waiter service and a lovely restaurant, this is the place for you. When you want another bottle brought to your lounger, they have a great but very simple system to attract service - you merely clip a red ribbon onto the parasol and a waiter will come. I wish they had adopted this simple technique on the private beaches in Nice where trying to get a cup of coffee requires many minutes of neck-craning and trying in vain to catch the eye of a passing waiter.

Wednesday 11th July 2007

Woke up very sore from running but I am persevering. I haven't dared weigh myself yet, ran for 25 minutes but very slowly as my shins are hurting, no wonder, I am running with the equivalent of carrying 4 large bags of potatoes. Tidied and cleaned the studio and bought beer for the fridge at our favourite supermarket - Ed on rue Cassini it's the cheapest supermarket in Nice, particularly their own label 'dia'. Husband's plane arrived early and have just had a phone call to say he waiting for the 98 express bus. The Nice airport website is great for monitoring flights, lets you know exactly what's going on as it happens.

After 70 minutes another phone call to say he had nearly arrived at the Port, in spite of everything going well and ahead of time, the 98 express bus was a let down - 35 minutes waiting at the airport and a great palaver when it arrived with people struggling off for planes and a huge queue trying to board simultaneously. He got here ion the end and had a welcome cold beer from the fridge. Back to Eds for all the stuff I has forgotten.

We went to Hermès later on to check out a scarf I fancied, got the thumbs up and the sweet assistant brought out another scarf I had been asking about so husband kindly and generously bought both. They are 'In the Pocket':

and 'omnibus' the smaller scarf, one of the new vintage range, a smaller 70cm square compared to the large 90cm carrés. The 'Omnibus' is a re-issue of Hermès' very first scarf design:

Thursday 12th July 2007

Less sore today but ran carefully and slowly for about 25 minutes again. I have noticed for the last few days that the beaches are free from campers - last year there were always several groups sleeping on the beach in sleeping bags, out in the open. Either I'm setting off later or they have been shooed away to help spruce up Nice's image.

We went to the beach today, only half full, the free public one nearest us, next door to Castel Plage private beach. A cold wind made the sun feel deceptively mild. My daughter red her book under a parasol snug under a towel from the cold wind but husband fell asleep in his chair and burned his thighs a bit. I tend to hide away from the sun anyway so I just about escaped. Inspite of burning, it was too cold to swim and too cold to be in the shade so we packed up and headed home. Had an email offering me a job at the end of August so accepted that, phew, I can pay back for the scarves, and shot out to Agnes B which I had been avoiding as I had no money. Nothing left in the sales but bought a simple very plain cashmere/silk black dress for me and a white fleece with fluffy pompoms for my daughter who now fits the Lolita range of clothing at Agnes B - for teens-20s.

Spent the rest of the evening re-jigging flights so that we could all be back home in August in time for by job to start and to stay in Nice as long as possible beforehand. Meal on our balcony. Can't eat out and shop.

Friday 13th July 2007

Ran for about 25 minutes this morning, definitely less painful. After that, had a lazy day, wandered around the Old Town and bought some Nicoise Olive Oil to take home from the famous shop, Alziari, at 14 rue Saint Francois de Paule. It's one of the few, if not only olive oil in France that has Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), like French wine. 16 euros a litre.